Take a selfie and then return it…
The latest must-have outfit trending on TikTok might be out of fashion by the time it arrives on your doorstep – and for many retailers, that’s a growing problem. As social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram drive lightning – fast shopping habits and impulsive buying behaviour, they’re also fuelling an unsustainable rise in product returns. For retailers, this isn’t just a logistics issue – it’s a multi-billion-pound headache with serious financial and environmental consequences.
Today, buying something online with the intention of sending it back is becoming the norm rather than the exception. This behaviour is being driven by several factors, including inconsistent sizing across brands, the convenience of free returns, and a growing trend known as “wardrobing” where consumers purchase clothing, wear it once (often for a selfie social media post), and then return it.
The Growing Scale of the Problem
Recent data suggests that more than 40% of online shoppers now make purchases fully expecting to return some or all of their order. That figure was significantly lower just a few years ago. Retailers are facing increased operational burdens from this behavioural shift. Each return comes with costs: restocking, reprocessing, potential loss of resale value, and logistical complications.
For fashion brands, especially those catering to fast-changing trends, this is a double-edged sword. The same channels that fuel demand – like TikTok and Instagram – also drive a cycle of impulse buying and immediate regret. When a product takes even a few extra days to arrive, the fleeting desire to own it may have already faded. In many cases, returned items cannot be resold at their original price, further squeezing margins.
Sizing, Speed, and Impulse
One of the primary drivers of high return rates is sizing inconsistency. Without a universal sizing system, consumers often order the same item in multiple sizes with the intention of keeping only the one that fits. This “bracketing” behaviour is expensive and wasteful, but difficult to prevent given current industry norms.
Then there’s the influence of speed. TikTok trends can explode and disappear within days. If a delivery misses that narrow window of relevance, the motivation to keep the item is often gone. This, combined with the impulsive nature of TikTok-fuelled purchases, means returns are increasingly treated as a built-in step of the shopping experience rather than an exception.
The Financial and Environmental Cost
Returns are expensive. UK retailers are estimated to lose over £5 billion annually due to online returns alone. What’s more, the environmental toll is considerable. Each return generates emissions, contributes to waste, and can lead to discarded or destroyed merchandise.
With fashion brands under pressure to demonstrate sustainability, the returns problem undermines many of their ESG efforts. The waste generated from packaging, transportation, and unsellable items puts significant strain on both the environment and a retailer’s green credentials.
How Retailers Are Responding
Retailers are beginning to act. Some, like Zara and H&M, have introduced return fees in an attempt to reduce unnecessary returns. These policies have faced backlash but reflect a broader shift in industry thinking—returns can no longer be treated as a free perk.
Others are investing in smarter logistics and clearer size guidance. Digital fitting tools, although still in early stages, aim to give shoppers a better idea of what will fit without the need to over-order. However, this technology is not yet widespread or consistently reliable.
Some experts believe that regulation may ultimately be required. Just as plastic bag taxes significantly reduced single-use plastic consumption, taxes or penalties on returns and waste could encourage more responsible buying behaviours and better industry practices.
The Role of Consumers
At the heart of this issue is a question of consumer culture. In an era of instant gratification and fast fashion, many shoppers have become desensitised to the real costs of their buying habits. Encouraging a mindset shift—away from volume and toward value will require a collective effort from brands, regulators, and consumers themselves.
Transparency from retailers, education campaigns, and perhaps even government-backed standards for sizing and sustainability could help move the needle. But change is unlikely to come quickly. Until then, the returns crisis is set to remain a persistent and growing headache for the retail sector.
